Many people restrict their bird feeding to the winter months and stop feeding during summer. But there are many reasons to continue feeding the birds all year long. Do you feed the birds in summer?  If you do, please post below and tell us about your summer feeding experiences!

One of the great reasons to feed birds in summer is to invite into your yard all the colorful migratory birds that have returned to us after the long winter. Grosbeaks, orioles, tanagers, mockingbirds, catbirds, and bluebirds are just a few of the summer birds that you can attract to your yard to enjoy their amazing colors and beautiful songs.

And although food is more plentiful in summer, it’s still possible that birds aren’t getting all the nutrition they need. Land development, stormy wet weather, droughts and any number of other circumstances can limit the availability of food for birds.  And an adequate food supply is especially important for nesting birds. Not only do they have to feed themselves, but also their constantly hungry babies. And many birds raise several broods each summer.

Here are a some bird feeding tips that will help you attract summer birds and provide them with the added nutrition that birds might need:

Offer a variety of foods besides bird seed. You can attract many fruit and insect eating birds with chunks of apple and banana for cardinals, robins, mockingbirds and others, oranges and grape jelly for orioles, and nectar for hummingbirds. Insect eating birds will be attracted to live, canned or roasted mealworms, or a snack of live or dried waxworms or fly larvae.

Offer suet. Suet is an excellent high-energy food for busy parent birds and it’s easily digestible for nestlings and fledglings. Parent birds will frequently bring their newly fledged babies to your suet feeders and teach them to eat on their own—a delightful thing to watch! And many insect eating birds will be attracted to suet—especially catbirds. But suet can tend to melt and get sticky in very hot weather. Use a no-melt suet, which has a slightly drier consistency and less fat than other suets. No-melt  or “all season” will be stated on the package. And Duncraft’s Can you guess what bird this is? Answer below!“Delight” suets and suet pellents are also no-melt.

If you are using uncovered tube feeders, consider investing in a weather baffle. Weather baffles are great for keeping rain and moisture from seeping into your feeders. Weather baffles can also shade your suet and nectar feeders from hot sun.

Check your feeders, seed and suet often, especially after a bout of rainy weather. No bird feeders are completely water proof, and water in your feeders can cause seed to sprout and seed and suet to go moldy—very unhealthy for your Eastern Bluebirdbirds. If you detect mold or sprouting seeds, empty and thoroughly clean your feeders before refilling.

Nyjer seed can be particularly susceptable to damp conditions.  It may look fine in the tube, but Nyjer can become hard and caked up if it’s exposed to moisture.  Frequently shake your Nyjer tubes and stockings to make sure the seed is still flowing.  Many times when your finches stop feeding, it’s because the Nyjer seed has gotten caked together into a hard mass.

Be sure to give your birds water!  Birds get most of their water from the insects they eat in summer and also from berries, but they still enjoy a drink now and then.  And birds bathe frequently in usmmer to help remove parasites, clean their skin and remove oil and dirt from their feathers to keep them in top-flight condition.

Enjoy your summer birds–and be sure to post below with any special summer feeding advice you might have and why you enjoy feeding the birds all summer!

Article originally posted on Duncraft

Now that nesting season is upon us, it’s not unusual for our Customer Service ladies to get phone calls from customers saying that they have found a baby bird on the ground, and asking what they can do about it.  Here are some answers that might help.

If you have found a baby bird on the ground, try to resist the temptation to “rescue” it.  It’s almost impossible for the average person to provide the proper care and diet for baby birds.  They require live insect foods and need to be fed about every 20 minutes. Sadly, baby birds seldom survive when people attempt to take them in and feed and care for them.  In most cases the best thing to do when you find a baby bird out of the nest is to simply leave the bird alone. If the baby is feathered and hopping on the ground, or perched on a low branch, you can be sure the parents are close by, watching over it and feeding it.  It’s normal for some baby birds to leave the nest before they are fully ready to fly.  The sooner you leave the area, the sooner the parents will be able to come back and tend to it.  However, if you have unrestrained outdoor dogs or cats, put them inside immediately and keep them inside until the baby bird is gone.

Rarely, you may find a live baby bird on the ground that has no feathers and is obviously not going to survive without your intervention.  Look for the nest and if possible, place the baby back in it and then leave the area.  The parent birds will not abandon the baby because you have touched it.  Birds have a very poor sense of smell and they won’t be able to detect your human scent.  If you can see the nest, but cannot get to it for some reason, an acceptable solution would be to nail a small, open container as near to the nest as possible. Line it with dried grasses and put the baby in it for the parents to find.  They will hear and recognize the baby’s chirps.  Or, if a nest has blown down with eggs or babies in it, you can nail a small basket to the tree where the nest was and put the remainder of the nest with the eggs and the babies in that.  Watch from a distance to see if the parents come back.

If you have watched the nest or baby bird for several hours and there has been no sign of the parents, it would be best to call a wildlife rehabilitator for advice.  Your local SPCA or Fish and Game Department will help you find one.  Don’t move the baby bird or eggs until you have heard from the rehabilitator. They may prefer to retrieve the baby themselves or have special instructions for you.  Rehabilitators are licensed to do this work and are specially trained on how to take care of injured or abandoned birds and animals.

Article originally posted on Duncraft

Bluebird House

When you decide to buy a bird house be aware that there are many designs being sold that are unsuitable for the birds. These houses may not attract any birds or the types of birds you wish, or they may actually be harmful.

Many are very cute and look like little decorated houses. There is nothing wrong with these, but they are usually more appropriate as indoor decoration than as good safe homes for wild birds.

Below is a checklist of the ten most important features of a good working bird house. Before you put a house out for wild birds, be sure it has these ten features. If it is decorative and still has these features, then it is fine to put it out.

Ten Features of a Good Bird House

1. No Perch
Tree holes in the wild have no perches, so the birds that use nest boxes do not need them. They can be a disadvantage in that they may attract House Sparrows, an invasive species that often takes over nests from our native hole-nesting birds.

2. Entrance Hole Size
Most of our common hole-nesting birds can use an entrance hole 1-1/2 inches in diameter. This size also keeps out Starlings, another invasive species that takes over nest boxes from native species.

3. Floor Dimensions
The inside dimensions of the box are important and should be at least 4 inches by 4 inches so that there is room for the young to develop.

4. Box Height
The distance from the bottom of the entrance hole to the floor of the box should be at least 5 inches. This keeps the developing young well down in the box and away from predators that might approach the entrance hole.

5. Be Able to Open
You must be able to open the box, either on the side, front, or top. This helps in two ways: to monitor the progress and health of the young, and to clean out the box at the end of the season.

6. Ventilation
There must be holes or slits at the top of the box sides or along the top of the front of the box to let hot air out when the sun beats down on the box in summer.

7. Drainage Holes
The bottom of the box needs to have holes or cut off corners to allow any water to drain out of the box.

8. A Way to Attach the Box
Check to see if there is some way that you can attach the box to a pole, such as holes or a bracket.

9. Should Be Wood
Be sure that the materials the box is made of are 3/4 inch thick wood or a similar material that will insulate the birds from cold and heat. The only exception to wood is Purple Martin housing — many are made out of metal.

10. Roof Overhang
The roof should overhang the entrance hole by 1 to 2 inches. This both shades the entrance hole and keeps the rain out.

Article originally posted on Duncraft

Choosing the Right Bird Seed

Choosing the right kind of seed can be tricky. A lot of people ask, “Why pay more for seed in a specialty catalog or at a specialty store when you can get the same thing cheaper at the grocery store?” First, it’s not the same thing! Second, you get what you pay for - the good stuff is going to cost you a little more, but your birds will truly love you for it!

Although you may find seed at your local grocery store for less money, this seed will not be as appealing to birds. These cheaper seed mixes often contain a lot of “filler” seed. This is seed that takes up room in the bag, is inexpensive, but is undesirable as part of a bird’s diet. Birds can be finicky; in fact, you will notice that birds pick through the seed mix to find what they really want. Birds often will not eat this filler seed, and instead flick it onto the ground. Premium seed will actually give you more edible seed per pound than other inexpensive seed mixes.

There are many kinds of seeds to choose from, but a few basic types of seeds can satisfy most birds. Buying several varieties of seed in bulk and mixing them yourself can actually save you money and you’ll be feeding your birds only the seeds they love!

Black oil sunflower seeds win the award for Best All Around! Black-oil sunflower seeds will attract the widest variety of birds to your yard. Cardinals, grosbeaks, nuthatches, and finches will all eat this gourmet seed. The thin shells are ideal for small birds to open and they are very rich in oil.

Striped sunflower seed is larger than the black-oil variety, and has a harder shell. This makes it good for heavy-billed birds like grosbeaks, jays and cardinals.

Sunflower hearts are sure to be a favorite with almost all birds! The birds can enjoy the sunflower hearts, without having to fight with the shells. They also are a lot cleaner under your feeder since there is virtually no waste. The downside is that this type of seed is less resistant to moisture as they are not protected by the shell.

Safflower seed is a cardinal favorite, and is also enjoyed by downy woodpeckers and evening grosbeaks. It is a white seed that is rich in oil. The best thing about safflower seed - squirrels usually avoid it! Mix safflower seed with black-oil sunflower seed and watch the birds flock, while the squirrels stay away.

Nyjer (Thistle) seed draws a lot of smaller songbirds such as finches, and pine siskins. There are special feeders with smaller feeding ports to dispense this tiny seed economically. Mixing small amounts of Nyjer with other seeds will make this expensive seed last longer!

White proso millet has a hard shell that makes it less prone to spoiling or rotting. Use this seed for ground or platform feeding. Although it comes in a red variety, birds typically prefer the white. It is also a key ingredient in many seed mixes.

Peanuts are a special treat for large birds. Peanut hearts or whole shelled peanuts are very nutritious and jays and woodpeckers love them! Unfortunately, so do the squirrels. If you’re serving peanuts, expect a visit or two from your gray bushy-tailed friends.

There is a virtually endless variety of seeds you can feed your wild birds. Buy single varieties in bulk and mix them yourself, or buy mixes already made for you. The important thing is to read the ingredients of mixes. The best mixes will consist mostly of sunflower seeds or hearts, rather than “filler” seed. It may seem a lot more expensive, but in the long run you will save money on all that wasted seed from cheaper mixes.

Article originally posted on Duncraft

Orioles are attracted in the summer with sugar-water nectar at hummingbird feeders and oriole feeders, but they do need perches in order to use these feeders. Many other foods will also lure the oriole, such as: suet, suet mixtures, peanut butter mixtures, doughnuts, pie crust, white bread soaked in milk, halved apples and oranges, cooked raisins, grapes, pieces of banana and grape or strawberry jelly. In fall orioles migrate to their winter habitats in the American tropics and return north again in our spring.

Orioles will use many kinds of feeders but they like a table feeder the best because it can offer them a variety of foods at one time.

One never knows which foods will appeal to the oriole. Some orioles like one thing, some another; and they can suddenly change to a new food and reject foods that they had been coming to. Our suggestion is to keep experimenting with the different foods listed above to attract this beautiful bird.

Article originally posted on Duncraft

Droll Yankees Bluebird Mealworm Feeder

This bird of gorgeous blue with its tender voice and gentle disposition was one of the commonest birds fifty years ago. Since then its population has dropped 90% due to new feisty competitors (the house sparrow and starling) and loss of natural nesting sites to land development. Man-made bluebird housing has already begun to bring back the bluebird but the rescue of this endearing species is not yet assured.

Mounting a House
Selection of a good location for mounting a bluebird house is crucial. Bluebirds prefer reasonably open areas with scattered trees. Open fields are satisfactory as long as there are fences or wires nearby to provide perching room. Bluebirds seldom nest in heavily wooded areas except along the edges of the woods and in clearings. Bluebirds now rarely nest within cities, except at their outer fringes due to competition from house sparrows and starlings.

Bluebirds will accept houses at almost any height from one to fifteen feet or more above the ground. However, very low mounting increases the danger of predators and high mounting can invite house sparrows and make the house inaccessible for cleaning. In general, the best height for the house is five feet from the ground, as measured to the bottom of the box. We recommend that you do not paint or treat the natural wood of the house, or place the house in an area where pesticides are used.

When young bluebirds first leave the nest, they instinctively fly directly to a place, usually a tree, that will afford them a perch above the ground. It is good to face the nesting box toward a tree with low branches, a large shrub or a fence that is within fifty feet or so. Bluebirds will often raise a second brood in midsummer.

For your house to succeed for bluebirds, it is imperative to monitor its occupants. It is important initially to evict sparrows. Opening the house for inspection will not frighten the bluebirds. Do not, however, open a house after the nestlings are twelve days old lest they leave the nest prematurely. Clean each house after each nesting - remove the old nest and check for parasites. Leave the house up during the winter to provide roosting boxes for birds at night. Inspect and clean again before spring.

Creating a Bluebird Trail
A bluebird trail consists of a number of nesting boxes, usually spaced a hundred yards or more apart, put in suitable locations and arranged in such a manner that they may be monitored conveniently. The minimum number of houses along a trail might be six. Large bluebird trails can be monitored by scout troops, Audubon groups or like-minded property owners. Immediate success with a trail is most likely to come where bluebirds are already frequently seen. If trying to attract bluebirds, begin the trail modestly. Young birds will often remain in the area or return to the same general area to nest.

Feeding Bluebirds
Bluebirds are quite versatile eaters and will accept food at bird tables, trays on posts, window feeders and suet feeders. Peanut hearts seem to be one of their favorite foods. Bluebirds also love pecan meats, raisins, currants, white bread, cornbread, doughnuts, pie crust, cottage cheese and baked apples. Water also plays a very important part in attracting bluebirds to your area.

Article originally posted on Duncraft

Ruby Red Hummingbird Feeder

Locate your hummingbird feeder in the same spot year after year, as returning hummers will come back to last year’s exact location, expecting to find the feeder there. To help ensure attracting them, it’s best to meet their expectations! They may not spot your feeder relocated to the other end of your yard.

It’s best to place your feeder near tubular flowers, red or orange in color. Flowers with these characteristics attract insects, which, along with nectar, are vital in the hummingbird diet. Hummers consume insects and derive protein from them. A bush or tree near your feeder provides welcome perching.

If possible, each spring install your feeder before insects arrive and before flowers bloom. This wins hummers to your food source before they are established solely on nature’s bounty.

Hang your feeder in a partially shaded area, direct sun can cause the sugar and water nectar mixture to separate and leak from your feeder.

A feeder should be cleaned thoroughly once a week in warm water and white vinegar to remove residue. A stiff bottle brush or hand-mop is useful. Soap or detergent are not recommended, especially if you have a vacuum type feeder which relies on capillary action (which soap interferes with). We recommend fresh nectar weekly; old solutions can ferment or produce a mold harmful to hummers. Hummers are fussy and will not come to feeders that have been neglected. They are quickly discouraged when they find feeders empty.

Hummers are very territorial and will fight at a feeder. When this happens it is best to set up another feeder in another spot to stop the fighting. Locate it about six feet from the other feeder.

Do not use any pesticides on flowers from which hummingbirds feed.

Making Your Own Nectar
Use 4 parts water and 1 part sugar. Boil this solution for two or three minutes on your stovetop, not in your microwave. Boiling helps retard fermentation and renders the syrup to the proper consistency. Store the solution in a closed container in the refrigerator. Do not substitute honey for sugar in this recipe. Honey can cause a fatal fungus disease in hummingbirds.

Article originally posted on Duncraft

The North American situation from Rob Fergus, Science Coordinator Audubon at Home, National Audubon Science Office

Spring is coming, and recent media reports have made claims that wild birds in Europe or Asia will be bringing bird flu to North America with them in the upcoming migration.

While a few Old World bird species do mingle with North American birds in Alaska and Greenland each summer, none of these species are known to carry the H5N1 bird flu virus on long migratory journeys.

This means that there is a small chance that an infected bird might be able to reach Alaska or Greenland and transmit the virus to American birds, though most ornithologists think that bird flu is much more likely to spread by way of illegal shipments of poultry or poultry products.

Since the virus does not appear to be easily spread even among members of the same wild bird flock (one study in China last winter found only six birds infected out of over 13,000 tested), even if the virus were to appear in ducks or geese in Alaska or Greenland, there is little chance that it would spread throughout North America, or that humans in North America would be at risk.

Government scientists will be testing birds in Alaska this summer to watch for the possible arrival of the H5N1 bird flu, and will let us all know what they find, but for now there is no evidence to suggest that backyard birdwatchers should worry about this virus coming to them by way of their backyard birds.

Avian Flu not a danger for bird watchers or feeders in North America

Sioux Falls, SD - Consumers who enjoy watching and feeding backyard birds are not in danger of contracting the Avian Flu, according to Dr. David Bonter of the Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology. “The spread of the H5N1 strain of the flu across Asia and Europe is certainly a cause for concern. However, there has not been a documented case of the H5N1 strain in wild birds in North America. There is no need to be concerned about feeding birds,” he stated.

Rob Fergus, Science Coordinator with the National Audubon Science Office, concurred with the Cornell findings. “The wild birds most likely to harbor or spread avian influenza are ducks and other waterfowl, often referred to as wild birds. There is a distinction between wild waterfowl, and the wild birds at our feeders,” he said. “At this point in time, there is no evidence humans are at serious risk of contracting avian flu from backyard birds or bird feeding.”

The Wild Bird Feeding Industry recognizes consumers may be concerned about the possibility of contracting H5N1 from their backyard feeders. “Human infections have occurred in people who have been closely associated with infected poultry. Not the wild birds at the feeder,” noted Susan Hays, Executive Director of the WBFI.

The World Health Organization, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations and numerous other international organizations are closely monitoring the spread and transmission of the H5N1 strain of influenza. “There is an overwhelming amount of information available on the web, and it’s good that consumers stay informed,” Steve Runnels, President/CEO of the American Birding Association stated. “This is becoming a conservation issue, and we encourage consumers here in North America to continue to feed their backyard birds.”

Wild birds accustomed to finding their favorite seed at the feeder need not be disappointed, especially with the onset of winter weather. “Base your feeding decisions on facts, not fears,” said Tom Franklin, Conservation Director with the Izaak Walton League of America. “Outdoor enthusiasts and bird feeders should continue to enjoy their activities. But remember to use common sense. Cleanliness and sanitation should be maintained at all times, whether you’re a feeder or outdoor sportsman. Keep feeding areas and feeders clean, following the recommendations of the ‘6 Steps’ program created by WBFI and other birding associations.”

Franklin’s reference to the ‘6 Steps to turn your yard into a sanctuary for birds’ is a tip sheet for feeders and includes information on maintaining healthy feeder stations. Fourteen organizations contributed to the development of the material, and it is available free to the public at http://www.backyardbirdcare.org/.

A portion of the literature reads ‘Keep feed and feeding areas clean. To help reduce the possibility of disease transmission in birds, clean feeders and feeding areas at least once a month. Plastic and metal feeders can go in the dishwasher, or rinse these and other styles with a solution of 10% bleach and warm water. Scrub birdbaths with a brush and replace water every three to five days to discourage mosquito reproduction. Rake up and dispose of seed hulls under feeders. Moving feeders periodically helps prevent the buildup of waste on the ground. Keep seed and foods dry; discard food that smells musty, is wet or looks moldy. Hummingbird feeders should be cleaned every three to five days, or every other day in warm weather. It’s good hygiene to wash your hands after filling or cleaning feeders.’

“Again, it’s the common sense approach to all possible infectants, not just the avian flu,” said Paul Baicich of the National Wildlife Refuge Association. “Bottom line: H5N1 has pandemic potential, but it is not a pandemic virus. The situation is worthy of concern, but not panic.”

North American birding associations include many trained ornithologists and biologists on staff, and these professionals are closely monitoring the avian flu situation. Consumers are encouraged to visit the following organizations for updated information:

Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology
National Wildlife Health Center
National Audubon Society
Wild Bird Feeding Industry
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
World Health Organization

Article originally posted on Duncraft

On cold and blustery winter days, it’s sometimes hard to believe that birds and other creatures can survive out there in the elements. We see birds flitting around our bird feeders, but what are they doing the rest of the time? Are they finding other food besides the bird seed from our feeders? Where do they roost at night and how do they keep warm? Most importantly, what can we do to help them?

Our backyard birds spend their winter days eating continuously. They have to, or they won’t have enough calories to burn to keep them warm during the night. Along with eating high fat foods such as suet cakes and sunflower seeds at our bird feeders, birds are adept at finding and taking advantage of natural food stores. For instance, chickadees eat conifer seeds, berries that remain on bushes, even scavenge fat from animal carcasses in the woods. Woodpeckers will forage for nuts, berries and seek out galls in trees that contain the larvae of insects or excavate the bark of trees for hidden insects and sap.

To make it easier for birds to forage wild foods and keep warm in winter, there are a number of things we can do around our yards to help out. First, don’t be so intent on cleaning up your garden in fall. Let your vegetables such as broccoli, carrots and parsley go to seed; they provide a good food source. Also flowers, such as sunflowers, coneflowers, thistles and milkweeds provide seeds during the winter if you don’t cut them back. Ornamental grasses are a good source of seeds in winter as well. Try keeping a section of your lawn un-mowed and let it go to seed. On days when the snow melts and the grass is revealed, the seeds will provide a bit of nourishment. Even weeds, such as goldenrod, will be helpful to birds if allowed to flourish and aren’t mowed down. And there are many bushes and shrubs that keep their berries long into the winter. Some, such as bittersweet are actually more palatable to birds after they’ve frozen and thawed. This way, they don’t get eaten up in the fall, but become valuable and sought-after in the dead of winter.

Shelter, particularly dense brush, gives birds a respite from cold, blowing winds during the day and a place to roost at night. If your lawn is a broad expanse of snow, it won’t help the birds. Try creating a brush pile in a corner of the yard rather than disposing of fallen leaves and dead branches. Start with a bed of raked up leaves and pine needles and then put your larger tree branches down. Then heap smaller branches on top, ending with cornstalks, grasses and other light vegetation. When the first snow falls, it will supply insulation over the pile. Birds will scratch through the leaves at the bottom for seeds and insect eggs without fear of exposure to predators and they can roost safely from owls and night time predators up inside the branches.

Article originally posted on Duncraft

Contrary to popular belief, not all of our winged companions fly south for the winter. Some of them hang around all year long. This means that they might use a little extra help finding food and water during the colder months of the year.

Most of the birds that stick around for winter will be seedeaters. (Think about it, fruit and insects are not very abundant during the cold months). So, a good choice for food is black oil sunflower seed, or even better, safflower seeds (squirrels and grackles don’t like it!). The best place to put your feeder for the winter? Wherever you can see it from the warmth and comfort of your favorite room in the house! Position various feeders at different heights to attract a wider variety of birds. Also, try to place the feeder somewhere that it has some shield from gusty winter winds.

Providing water in the winter will make your backyard especially attractive to birds. In winter it is particularly hard to come by water in liquid form. By keeping a heater in your birdbath, you will provide your birds with a much-needed place to drink and bathe. Birds bathe to keep their feathers in good condition. In the winter, birds fluff up their feathers to act as insulation to keep themselves warm.

Be patient, it may take several weeks before you see any birds at your winter feeders. So long as you have clean, full feeders, chances are the birds will find them. Another tip is to avoid filling feeders with mixed birdseed from your local grocery store. These mixed bags often contain filler seed that birds won’t even eat. The filler seed will end up making a mess on the ground under your feeder, and your birds will go elsewhere to find better food.

An important thing to know is that in the fall, many birds are noting where they can find food and water. This means that what you are doing in October/November in your backyard may determine how many visitors you get once winter actually hits. Just remember, your birds appreciate what you do for them all year long, but even more so in the winter months.

Article originally posted on Duncraft